Cheese Makers
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- February 10, 2025
Good cheese – really good cheese – is more than just a tasty food made from milk. It is a confluence of history, provenance, and, perhaps most importantly, people. When I am helping to source and select cheeses for us to import, it is just as vital that I get to know the stories of the people behind them. To truly do this, it is vital to travel to the source to see, to speak, and to taste.
We are rarely satisfied at The Fine Cheese Co., a quality that is at the company’s core. Our founder Ann-Marie Dyas stated it plainly: “Seek out the best and, when you find it, keep looking”. This mentality keeps us from resting on our laurels, and we are constantly on the hunt and keeping our ears to the ground. Sometimes, a delicious cheese we have carried experiences change in some way, and we consider how this affects us.
In this case, we learned quite unexpectedly that the affineur in Aurillac we had worked with for years for both Fourme d’Ambert and Saint-Nectaire Fermier was no longer a part
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- January 24, 2024
UPDATE
(9th Feb 2024)
Kirkham's Lancashire is back!
We are delighted to be able to tell you that Kirkham's Lancashire will be back on sale from next Wednesday. Graham will personally select some cheeses for us on Monday and they will be winging their way to us immediately.
You may have heard that Kirkham's cheeses were subject to a precautionary recall at Christmas, but we are so happy to report that absolutely nothing untoward has been found either in their milk or in their cheese. They have worked constructively and tirelessly with all the relevant authorities. They take their responsibility to provide safe food deeply seriously and have been able to demonstrate that their farming and cheesemaking practices are robust and hygienic.
We believe that Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire is a special cheese indeed. Not only because it is delicious, but also because of its place in the history of cheesemaking in this country. It is the very last, raw milk, farmhouse Lancashire cheese made to the
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- April 03, 2020
Selling cheese, made by small, artisan producers, who work with great skill, dedication and enthusiasm, has always been both a privilege and a pleasure. Now it feels like a responsibility too.
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- March 11, 2020
Fresh off the heels of International Women’s day, we wanted to take a moment to celebrate the enormous contribution made to our industry by talented women. Our founder, Ann-Marie Dyas, was one such woman, whose enduring legacy is one of championing traditional, artisan cheesemaking. That is, cheeses that are made by hand. Cheeses made by small and independent producers. Producers who labour for the love of their craft, and not to mass-produce something that might net more profit. The result is something of quality, cheese that has depth and complexity and that is a far more rewarding experience on the cheeseboard, in terms of both flavour and texture. We think that is something worth celebrating.
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- February 05, 2019
It is with great sadness that we say goodbye to Mary Holbrook, the maker of the incomparable Tymsboro cheese, who passed away at the weekend.
She died at home on Sunday, at her beautiful farm on the hill, in Somerset, where she has worked tirelessly over decades to establish and maintain her world-class reputation.
Mary has had an impact on a staggering amount of people in the artisan cheese industry in the UK and beyond. She welcomed trainees, visitors and transient workers to come to Sleight farm and learn, work and contribute to the cheese making and the farm; people from customers like ourselves, other cheesemakers and the wider food community. Never shy to let people see her process and learn from her techniques, safe in the knowledge that no-one could recreate the exceptional terroir of her Somerset hilltop. Our Technical Manager, Martin, had the privilege to work for Mary for two years and learned a huge amount from her. He says "The way she made cheese was unique in my experience.
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- October 24, 2018
Marcus Fergusson and his cheese, the aptly named 'Renegade Monk'
Cheesemakers are like their cheeses: they’re supposed to take time to mature and fully develop.
Marcus Fergusson, of Feltham’s Farm Cheeses, is a fascinating character, as he doesn’t quite fit this mould. Like his cheese, he is something of a renegade. He’s prodigiously talented and far more comfortable taking risks than a cheesemaker of his experience has any right to be. He’s also disarmingly open and honest about his journey to get to where he is today, both on his blog (which is excellent) and in person.
I’m always excited about trying a cheese when it's made a certain name for itself. One of the reviews that Marcus proudly displays on his website describes Renegade Monk as, ‘a vicious little cheese’. It certainly has an edge to it. It’s pungent and moody, a bit like a surly teenager. You can imagine it spending a lot of time listening to Linkin Park and complaining about being misunderstood. It would be easy to understand
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- June 18, 2018
James and George Keen
‘I believe that what we become depends on what our fathers teach us at odd moments, when they aren't trying to teach us. We are formed by little scraps of wisdom.’
Umberto EcoCheesemakers obsess over the smallest of details, in order to perfect that taste they are seeking. Over the years, a cheesemaker will build up a laundry list of tips and make-notes.
This Father’s day, we took a moment to celebrate a few of the father-son teams in artisan cheesemaking. In many cases, traditional cheeses have stayed within one family for generations, allowing the knowledge, the cheese and the ‘little scraps of wisdom’ to stay on the same farm as one cheesemaker passes the torch to another. Whether they are perfecting existing recipes, or laying the groundwork for the creation of breathtaking new cheeses, fans of cheese everywhere owe a lot to these father and son teams.
George and James Keen are one such team. The Keen’s have been making traditional, artisan raw-milk Cheddar -
- March 05, 2018
Women have long held a place at the heart of traditional cheesemaking. In the very early days of British cheese, monasteries were important centres of production. With their dissolution by Henry VIII in 1560, recipes often passed to the local farmers' wives, broadening the styles of cheese to be found on British farms.
There is a long tradition of the women of the family taking control of the dairy, and making butter and cheese both to feed their family and to take to market. Women cheesemakers have played a key role in the resurgence of artisan British cheese and have inspired a new generation of women to take up this noble profession.
In homage to these wonderful women, we have created a selection called Sisters in Cheese, which celebrates the accomplishments of four great women cheesemakers who have revived lost cheeses or created new classics.
Do cheeses have a gender?
It wasn't easy to choose just four, in fact, so great is the choice of cheeses made by women that, when talking to
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- September 08, 2017
This month heralds the start of Organic September and an opportunity to discuss the values of organic food. Organic stands for environmental sustainability, a lack of herbicides or artificial fertilisers, and animal welfare.
Organic September is a great opportunity to chat with two shining lights of organic dairy farming, about why they feel it is so important to the future of food production.
Patrick Holden, CEO of the Sustainable Food Trust and founding chairman of the British Organic Farmers movement in 1982, is a man whose farming techniques have helped make Hafod the cheese it is today. He feels conventional farming methods in the UK are not sustainable.
“The present predominant food system, using chemical fertilisers, pesticides and monoculture, is trashing the planet”, he said. “It’s eroding the soil capital. It’s causing damage to public health.”
Patrick speaks from experience. When on the Association of Livestock Standards Committee in the 1980s, he wrote the world’s first draft
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- May 17, 2017
As we approached the village of Colston Bassett, the clouds parted and fields of vivid green grasses were bathed in sunshine. It was such a welcome sight from what was an otherwise grey and dreary journey to Nottinghamshire.
We entered the creamery though the Dairy shop, which proudly displayed two products; Colston Bassett Stilton and Colston Bassett Shropshire Blue. Such simplicity is truly admirable, and the continuous stream of locals through the door is a testimony to the quality of this classic cheese.
Billy Kevan gave us a potted history of the dairy, naming the five Head cheese-makers who have been at the helm since the co-operative was created 104 years ago. The proud tone he used when explaining his part in the dairy’s continuing story was rather humbling. Is it the quality of the cheese which retains staff long periods? Or is it the solid body of knowledge, handed down from one cheese-maker to the next, which encourages such exceptional quality?
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- November 08, 2016
Wine and cheese enjoy a harmonious relationship on our dinner tables. For every cheese, there is always a complementary wine that makes for the perfect pairing. The bond between these two does not end there, though. There are countless parallels in the way cheese and wine are produced too.
When making wine, for instance, the soil type can influence the minerals that are absorbed by vines, which affects the grapes and then, as a result, the taste of the wine. Soil has a bearing on cheese as well. The grass where a dairy herd feeds can differ depending on the soil. It’s these subtle differences that contribute to a cheese’s character.
During a recent visit to Ram Hall Farm, where Berkswell cheese is made, we learned from Stephen Fletcher, who manages the farm and dairy operation, that his ewes had shown a preference to a certain type of soil.
Approximately 40 years ago, a lake near to where Stephen’s ewes graze was dredged onto the neighbouring field. Since then, grass has grown over the